The trip is over

The trip is over now. More accurately it has been over since the week of Halloween. I finished the whole thing off with some time in NYC and a Ween concert. I would like to thank everyone who took the time out of their schedules to assist me in my effort to visit, and work for, breweries. I will be posting some additional content over the next few weeks.

DC Brau knows how to throw a proper Party

Meat Bus

After Franklin's I was invited to DC Brau for an evening feast and a showing of Shaun of the Dead. It seemed only a few hours before this I was promising my body some rest from the endless onslaught of rich food....oh well, there's always tomorrow for that. Now we feast on meat and more meat and olives. Warm ones. Blood Sausage? YES! I have never left a brewery this full of food. After I was introduced me to the owners of DC Brau I was given a tour of the young (less than one year in operation) brewery while being urged to make myself at home. I spent the rest of the night sitting on a barrel in the corner of the brewery sipping beers and eating, while watching a movie. I wish this were my home.

      When I wasn't sitting and eating I was outside chatting up Leon, a fellow motorcyclist and doorman for the night. Leon and I had a nice bench racing session as beer lovers filtered past us. Look for DC Brau beers next time you are in the DC area, or better yet check out the brewery. 

Good luck to DC Brau - thanks for a great night.

Franklin's General Store and Brewery

The closing miles of the Blue Ridge Parkway lead me to another rear tire and another brewery.

I met Mike Roy, brewer at Franklin's, by chance, after a New Hampshire motorcycle ride about 7 years ago. A friend and I stopped in at a bar in Manchester, NH not knowing it was a brewery due to a complete lack of signage indicating this "taverns" real purpose. After being pleasantly surprised that our post ride beer stop was a brewery I started talking with the bartender who happened to be the brewer. Maybe it was the fact that I always gravitate towards talkative people because they help me shut up, or maybe it was simple coincidence, either way I liked Mike immediately and I knew that I would be stopping to have beers at this place as long as he was around. After a few years it was time for Mike to move on to a different brewery. When I started out on this trip I contacted Mike early and often. It was Mike who set me up with many of the contacts that have made this trip successful. To finish the riding section of this adventure without stopping to see Mike would be a crime. I had just finished riding the length of the Blue Ridge Parkway and decided to skip Skyline Drive. As I carved the narrow VA farm roads I felt like I was in the Framingham/Sudbury region of MA. Each of these roads, at their widest point, was no more than 20' wide and the small abrupt hills made seeing through corners a relative impossibility. I considered how lucky I was to have this area to myself on this perfect fall day. At the intersection of random county road and route 28, 100 miles outside D.C., I decided it was time to make my way to the capital on a more direct route. I needed one more tire and the day was going to escape if I didn't focus on finding a shop.

I have been so lucky to find great motorcycle shops on my trip and today would be another example of this. Good Fellows Bike Repairs in Midland, VA is run by Leroy Greene (Bro. Lee) and his wife Brenda. I was greeted by Mr. Greene and we had time to talk about his experiences in business and his charitable interests as my bike had a new rear tire fitted. Although Good Fellows specializes in trike conversions and Harley Davidson work they had a tire that would fit my bike and got me on my way quickly with a great deal on the tire as a bonus. I highly recommend this shop.

Franklin's General store, Restaurant and Brewery

Franklin's has been in this location in Hyattsville, MD for 20 years. Today, 10 years after the addition of a brewery, people who came here with their parents over the years are now bringing their children to experience the general store and restaurant. When Mike began at Franklin's there were 4 serving tanks and only 7 kegs. Mike's belief in an infinite human palette for beer drove him to request that more serving tanks and kegs be added to allow 11 beers to be served at all times. To achieve this 39 kegs were added and one 10 Bbl tank, originally intended for beer, but being used for root beer, was re-purposed as a lagering tank.

When I arrived at the brewery after a long nite of fun on the town in DC I entered the brewery through the kitchen, surprising the staff. I assured them I was welcomed by the brewer and was simply unable to grasp his simple instructions for brewery access. I sneaked into the cellar and probably startled and already busy Mike while he was cleaning floors and transferring beer from tanks to kegs in an effort to make space for more beer in his cellar. After catching up and taking some time for a brief tour of the brewery we talked about the DC beer scene and an event that I would be welcome to later in the evening. The plan for the day was to fill some more kegs, clean a serving tank, and fill that cleaned serving tank with the excellent Bombshell Blonde that afternoon. I reminded myself that I would have to get a picture of the front of the building at some time, a task which I quickly forgot, only remembering 200 miles outside of DC. At this point, early in the day after a dizzying trek from 6 miles across town in crazy traffic, all I wanted was lunch. I am sure that I missed a fair amount of info obsessing over how hungry I was. As the day progressed I put down my notebook and camera and just hung out with Mike. As we discussed the best way to achieve proper water chemistry on Pils I noticed barrels in the corner which turned us towards a strong beer and barrel aging discussion. This turned out to be a timely discussion because as lunch time drew nearer a new crop of barrels was delivered by friendly local brewers. We unloaded the barrels, placing them in positions of readiness for later filling, then we ate.

Some brewers spend more time thinking about beer than actually drinking it and I think Mike is one of these. His love of brewing seems to be derived from studying styles and histories of beer rather than constant consumption. This approach leads to some interesting experiments such as the "Ludicrous Sour Rye Saison". During lunch as I sipped this sour mashed, rye malt based saison I was rewarded with one of those rare beer experiences, one that keeps all beer lovers hunting for the next great thing - my mind was transported to the Belgian farmhouses of the 18th century and just as I was imagining that I was tasting saison for the first time, it was gone. I reminded myself to try it again later. I would not forget this reminder. 

Lunch could not have come a moment too soon. After my late evening and skipped breakfast I was overjoyed to see that Franklin's offered at least one insane sandwich on their menu: The Vulcan Mind Meld. My pants got tighter just reading about it - Pastrami, corned beef, slices of pickles, Swiss, provolone, slaw, skinny fries, hots, tomatoes, and Thousand Island dressing on toasted rye bread. I'll take 3....a day, forever.

Our lunch conversation was that of typical brewery employees: Taxes are too high, regulation is too strict, I would like my own place in "X", and beer geeks sometimes misunderstand the point of our beers but it's a good thing they (we) exist. I listened on and the talk turned to a relatively intense debate on how to make the Governors Cup, a DC area beer event/competition for DC area beers, a better run and more fun event for everyone. Lunch went a little long as we became increasingly wrapped up in beer talk; there was still a filtration to do before the day was over.

We returned to the cellar and set up the filter for action the day pretty much disappeared. My stomach was very full with what I vowed would be my last intake of crazy road food. In spite of a friends claim that meat, chocolate, and cigarettes are the only food groups I continue to rely heavily on vegetables and yogurt in my diet. These staples have been in short supply on this trip. Now, I realize that I could have stopped at nearly any grocery store in the country for yogurt and veggies but that brings with it the nuisance of dealing with new grocery stores, something I loathe. In addition to my illogical fear of unfamiliar grocery stores there is the fundamental truth of having no ability to store fresh foods on my bike. As the temperature cooled down it became more realistic, but by this time the trip was essentially over and my habits were set in stone. Once the filtration and the day were over Mike offered me couch space at his place. As I fell asleep on the ultra comfy couch I reflected on my trip. It is becoming a blur, the first of two things I never expected, the second was an overwhelming urge to return to Massachusetts tomorrow.

Thanks to Franklin's, especially to Mike for helping me finish my brewery visits in perfect form.

Heinzelmannchen Brewery

When I went to sleep Saturday night after consuming a few beers and that crazy potato I was one happy camper. The general outlook for Sunday was totally positive with a 100% chance of sleeping late followed by moderate writing and a small motorcycle ride from Tellico Plains to Deals Gap and back. My sleep plans were rudely interrupted when, for the first time in memory, my cell phone alarm went off. This damn thing hasn’t worked in two years even though it is always on! Why must it go off right now? Who wakes up at 7AM on Sunday! It turns out I do. I wandered off to figure out what to do with myself. Coffee came first as it always must. After that I said goodbye to the other overnight guests at Hunt’s. Then I went to hide out and write for 3 hours before taking off on my ride. 

The plan was to ride as lazily as possible through Smokey Mountain National Park before hitting the Deals Gap area of route 129. This section of road is better known as The Dragon. I wanted the ride to start off relaxed so that I would be in a slow frame of mind at 4pm when I approached the northern part of Deals Gap. This plan was intended to keep me from going too fast. The deep calm I had achieved after my jaunt through RMNP disappeared when I found that, except for one cruiser and the usual photographers on DG, I was all alone. The gentleman on the cruiser pulled over when I approached him and I was in the perfect position to enjoy this road that offers  over 300 curves in 11 miles. Let's just say I forgot to go slow. After covering the first 1/3 of the available 11 miles I pulled over to take a picture and to reflect on how lucky I was at this moment. Minutes later a blue Mini cooper loaded with giggling people blasted past me hitting the apex of the turn in the wrong lane. Good thing there wasn’t a motorcycle traveling in the opposite direction. A few seconds later Mr. cruiser putted by. I was ready to ride but I decided to wait either 3 minutes or until the next vehicle approached from behind me, whichever came first. 3 minutes came and went with no cars in either direction; I took my cue and rode on. The idea here was to avoid catching either the bike or the car, giving me a clear road to enjoy. The only thought I could keep in my head throughout this short, mind altering stretch of pavement was “my bike has never worked this well! This new suspension makes me feel like I actually know how to ride.”  Suddenly Mr. blue mini passed me going the other way and, thankfully, not in my lane this time. Now I only had to worry about cruiser guy. I caught him 3 corners later after I royally screwed up a decreasing radius turn. I decided I would go back and practice that turn a few times so that I would give Mr. cruiser time to get away from me. After teaching myself a lesson that took 3 or 4 tries I rode on blissfully alone for the remainder of the road. I have never been happier, or more worn out, after riding such a short section of pavement. I expected to be stuck in some kind of motorcycle parade on this road after hearing stories that friends had told. I guess it was my lucky day. I headed directly back to Tellico Plains via a high speed burn over the Cherohala to finish my day. When I dismounted my bike I examined my front and rear tire. For years I have been wondering how I could use that last 1/8” of rubber on the edges of the tire. To my great satisfaction the edges of my front and rear tire were scraped and worn just a little. I finally got my money’s worth out of a set of tires and it only took 20 years of practice and $800 worth of suspension parts! I sat outside my cabin reveling in my glory with a calzone and some more Yuengling. Minutes after I had decided that life was perfect I received a brutal shift in perspective as I learned of Marco Simoncellis death. As I thought about this I flashed back to a conversation in Austin on the silliness of shedding tears about the death of someone you don’t know. Like Dieter said the day before “It’s all about the beer Ray. Well, that and everything else.” 

Heinzelmannchen –

I will paraphrase what I was told by Dieter. Heinzelmannchen are benevolent Gnomes who aid production workers such as brewers, blacksmiths etc…. They clean the shops and fix the tools. Provided you do not see them they remain helpful. If you harass them or seek they will no longer help and may even cause harm.  Heinzelmannchen Brewery is owned and operated by Dieter and his wife Sheryl. This 8 year old brewery is located in the picturesque valley town on Sylva, NC only a few miles from the Blue Ridge Parkway.

Brewing with Dieter -

Dieter is a large man with an easy genuine smile. He has an accent that vacillates between an entirely understandable German one and a slightly southern one, and even the absence of an accent at times. I am unsure of why my initial feeling was intimidation when we spoke on the phone. When he actually came out to greet me as I was still removing my helmet and gear I felt like I was being welcomed by a family member. As I entered the brewery I was given the rundown on everything that was going to happen that day and in the days to come. I noticed the brewery was small and I wondered where the beer was made. Worry crept in – Did I end up in a fake brewery? Why wasn’t it scorching hot in this small space? Where were the mash smells? Why was there no fermentation aroma? Then I noticed the SABCO system steaming away in the bomb proof back room; if the two 10Bbl fermenters had been snakes they would have bit me. Still mildly confused about how a 1/2 Bbl system worked with 10Bbl fermenters I uttered a sigh of relief. During this internal struggle Dieter was talking about a Bar and Beverage management class from West Carolina University was coming by later that day. I asked a few questions and excused myself to grab some coffee and quiche at the local bakery.

After returning with coffee I began asking Dieter questions about his brewery and his involvement in educating area residents on the benefits of craft beer. Over the last 3 years, In an effort to mold the next generation of bar and restaurant owners and managers, Dieter has been giving time to West Carolina U's one semester bar and beverage course. He has the students drop in to the brewery to explain the place craft beer has in the food world. In addition to explaining that beer is an excellent beverage choice to accentuate a meal Dieter has a chance to show interested students the brewing process. This in brewery explanation of beer being made, while watching beer being made, should help the students gain a better understanding of what beer is while also sparking more interest in beer styles. As we talked about the brewery I learned that Heinzelmannchen was primarily an extract brewery. I have to say I was a little thrown by this; I have long held misconceptions about using extract to make beer, I was about to be re educated. What Extract brewery means is this: Dieter has an outside source produce and condense wort for him, using his recipes of course, they then ship the condensed wort to him so that he may re-hydrate it. Dieter does a mini mash to add mouthfeel and additional complexity to his beers. I have never been in a production extract brewery and I was excited (and admittedly nervous) about the beers. Lucky for me Dieter was eager to share. After having a few very nice samples I was educated. I now see extract beer can be very good beer and I learned that Dieters excellent specialty beers are all made on the 15 gallon SABCO in house. There is a plan to start using the brew system that Dieter is slowly piecing together (as money comes in) to move all wort production in house. This is a challenge both monetarily and due to North Carolina's somewhat prohibitive beer and brewery laws. In talking with Dieter further I learned that most of the beer from Hienzelmannchen brewery is sold in house with the bulk of off premise sales coming from "beer catering". Beer catering includes a portable draft system packed with dry ice, and your choice of Heinzelmannchen beer which is delivered to your event for a fee. With this areas high level of second homes owned by retirees and the eternally party ready college students, the stocked kegorator delivery is an amazing service to offer.

The future awaits. A 7Bbl mash tun is on site for future use.

I had an excellent time hanging out with, and trying to help, Dieter. Both of us being talkative, opinionated people made for hours of compelling conversation. Every time a customer would come in he would go to serve them and I would be left to handle his brew. I learned that Dieter is a Marine (familiarity leads me to believe that there is no such thing as an Ex Marine) and retired nurse. I never cease to be astounded with the varying backgrounds in the brewing fraternity. When the brewery was starting Dieter was pulling three 12 hour shifts a week at the local hospital and using the rest of his hours on his brewery doing as much of the building, plumbing and electrical as he was able. When asked about how this affected his sleep and sanity his response was "every goal in life is all in how bad you want it." Eventually Dieter was able to make the transition from nurse/brewer to full time brewer.

Dieters start in brewing was inspired by a lack of great beer in his community. He began home brewing to fill his needs. After sharing his beer with family and friends who told him he should start a brewery he finally did. 8 years later Dieter continues to focus on making beer that pairs with food. There are no "hop bombs" on his list, no ultra high alcohol anything. just relatively simple, well made beers that leave you wanting another taste. This dedication to drinkable beer should keep customers coming back and when Dieter moves on to his planned production facility in two years it should earn his beer new fans.


"It's all in how bad you want it" or The most hardcore brewer in America -

Meet Hannah. No, seriously go meet her. She has been Dieters assistant brewer since her hospitality management class came through the brewery two years ago. Hannah walked in around noon to take over the brewing and to do some educating with the latest class passing through the brewery. I had a chance to talk to her before Dieter and I stepped out to lunch. After mentioning what I was up to and then getting her story she offered me a place to stay. She said "This summer I lived in a tent on the edge of an organic farm in Cullowhee, NC. If you want to stay there, I'm not using it and you're welcome to it." I was happy to be offered a free place to stay after spending the morning worrying about that issue. In the evening when I showed up at the farm and met Curt, the proprietor, I was invited to join him and a group of his friends for a night out getting beers and food. Only after the outing, laying in the tent slipping into a food coma, was I struck by what was happening. I was astounded. I was about to fall asleep in a tent where a brewer lived so that she could brew beer for a living!  In my mind this dedication makes Hannah the hardest brewer in the US. I wouldn't even consider living in a tent so that I could have the job I love. Not only would I not do that now, I wouldn't have done it when I started my career. Meeting someone with this level of addiction to the pursuit of creating beer is serves as a reminder of why the craft beer movement continues to inspire people. The individuals involved are dedicated to their craft to the point of unhealthy obsession.

When I woke up the following morning I decided I wasn't going to see any brewery that inspired me more than this one did. If there is an ideal brewery for the trip I am on it is the Heinzelmannchen brewery. With it's location in the midst of what may be the finest motorcycling on the east coast and it's team of beer lovers it was a reaffirmation of everything I was looking for on day one of this trip. I left the farm knowing that I would seek out no other breweries in an attempt to sell my adventure. I will simply enjoy every mile of the stunning Blue Ridge Parkway and the back roads of Virginia.

The next stop will be with Mike Roy at Franklin's general store and brewery in Hyattsville, MD. That will be followed by NYC for a Ween concert. After that I will be going directly home. I will be flat broke and unemployed when I arrive. Luckily Dieters voice is in my head reminding me that It's all about the beer, but it's also about everything else.

One brewers Island, One motorcyclists dream.

The conversation was preceded by two rings.

"Dieter here." I quickly thought of what to say to this mildly intimidating German accented voice. "Hi Dieter, it's Ray Dobens from road to fermentation. Uhhhh....I'm not sure if you remember who I am." I rattled off in a coffee induced staccato. "I am inTellico plains and I was wondering if I might be able to come by on Monday or Tuesday to work alongside you in your brewery." "Oh the motorcycling brewer!" he said with enthusiasm. "Yeah, I'm that guy. I am going to spend Saturday and Sunday satisfying myself on these amazing roads and then I would like to work with you. Would that be ok? You were one of the only people who I didn't already know who showed enthusiasm for my project after all. I am pretty excited to see what you are up to. Is it still going to work?" The answer was a succinct "Of course it will. Please come by Monday at 9am and we will make some beer. It's all about the beer, of course. Well...that and every thing else." My only response was "Nice! I can't wait. See you then. Goodbye."

I spent Saturday riding the eastern TN and northwestern NC roads at a spirited pace. I have been here before and the only thing left in my wake was a regret at not having the time to enjoy more of these roads. 

If you ride motorcycles on the east coast and you haven't been here you are missing out. This is the place to be. Between here and West Virginia you could turn yourself into a quivering puddle of dopamine. The roads are ultra kinky and virtually unharmed by large trucks and bad weather. One local responded to my inquiry to why the roads are so nice with this gem. "North Carolina. We spend next to nothing on education and everything else on our roads! I hope you enjoy them." I do. I would pay extra to ride here. I guess I shouldn't say that too loud or the 36 educated people on the TN/NC border will find a way to charge the rest of us to use these roads. Of course, the 40-45 mph speed limit is a little silly for this kind of road - but who follows the speed limit anyway?

The fall colors were probably the best they would be in this part of the country during my visit. I guess that makes me a leaf peeper? After a day of absorbing as much failing chlorophyll as my adrenaline riddled mind could absorb I made my way back to Tellico Plains, TN via the Cherohala. This road was constructed in the mid 1960's to join Tellico Plains, TN and Robbinsville, NC. Year round it is host to an average 20 cars and over 100 motorcyclists a day. The Cherohala is a must for any east coast traveler. Traversing peaks over 5000 feet and offering stunning views of surrounding valleys, the Cherohala offers everything from hiking and camping to mountain bike trails and some great hunting and fishing. And, if you're only here to use the pavement (like me), you will be impressed. If this one road isn't enough for you, even if you're not map or GPS savvy, you can't go wrong on any of the other surrounding roads. This area is truly a motorists dream. Check out  http://www.cherohala.com/ for more info.

Hunt's Lodge -

This place is a motorcycle travelers wet dream, They have 5 cabins with 3 bed's per cabin at a fair rate. They also offer the best rate for those who prefer a tent over a cabin. Their clean showers and bathroom facilities are a welcome relief from the sometimes foul facilities the competition offers. Lori and Jack are genuine motorcycle enthusiasts with a feel for what all riders want, offering the best service for the motorcycling public year after year. Coffee and laundry are available on site, along with many other amenities that make Hunt's Lodge the best option for absolutely any person traveling through this beautiful area. This place is run by good people looking to serve budget minded travelers with comfort in mind. The cabins are impeccable. If you paid a rate like theirs at any hotel you would be assured to walk away with a rash; with Hunt's Lodge you will walk away with a renewed faith in your fellow man. The added bonus for motorcyclists will be a conversation on local routes with Jack and Lori. They are better than any map you can buy.

The BBQ -

Since I did not grow up in the BBQ belt of America I would not be considered the best BBQ judge. I have been eating a ton of BBQ on this trip to polish my skills. I've come to a conclusion. No one really knows what good BBQ is; what is good is what you either grew up with or what is available nearby. As far as I know the best roast pig available to mankind is what my uncles slow roast in an old converted oil tank. Next to that option comes a little place in Somerville, MA that goes by the name of Redbones. Like I said I have tried other things over the course of my trip. I have been trying to disprove some people who say Redbones is not all it's cracked up to be. I'm here to tell you that it is. They hold their own against any other comer in the game. having said that, I would like to give some honorable mention to Krambonz BBQ in Tellico Plains,TN. They do a "loaded baked potato" that could cause worldwide turmoil. If only the world knew about it.

Check this bastard creation -

 I ordered mine to go and carried it safely for about 3 miles between my fat gut and my gas tank. When I arrived at Hunt's Lodge I lost focus and dropped it in the driveway. I was only about 200 yards from my picnic table at this point. I guess that 12 pack of Yuengling in my top case was weighing a little too heavily on my mind. When my loaded baked fell my first reaction was a loud curse, followed by relief that the Styrofoam container didn't break. Unfortunately I did spill the beans. No matter, I ate them from the outside of the container and inside of the bag before opening my potato carrier.

Loaded potato meet soon to be loaded brewer. That potato has about 1 oz of butter, 2.5 oz of shredded cheese, and that mess is covered with scallions,  BBQ pork, and then covered in sauce. The loaded potato is paired with some fresh slaw and, to my limitless dismay, no pickles. No Pickles! At a BBQ place? I give them a hearty middle finger for that misstep. For the flavor of the rest of the dish Krambonz gets two thumbs up. This thing was a mind bender. My suggested beer pairing is Yuengling. Not only is it the perfect beer for every situation, it is the only drinkable beer on sale in this area. Hooray for me. If that's not the food of kings I'm not sure what is.

Next stop is food coma and meat sweats.


After that comes Heinzelmannchen brewery.

........Austin pt. 3

I have to be honest here. I had no idea this brewery existed. Pete mentioned he really liked their beer. Every beer store was out of all available products. "It sells too fast!" was the reason given each time. I knew these guys must be making something exciting. I was determined to find out more. I emailed the brewery in an attempt to gain access for a day. Luck was on my side, Mike (from ABW) contacted me and welcomed me to check out the brewery.

Good luck finding this place without either local knowledge or a gps. It is tough! I got my failing gps to work just well enough to put me in the general brewery area. I then spent 20 minutes circling this industrial park. Finally I pulled over to call and get a clue and there I was. Ok. Lets see what happens at Austin Beerworks.

Show me your cans! -

Austin Beerworks is a can and keg only brewery with no current plan of doing a bottled product. This makes a lot of sense given the recent increased availability of can fillers made for small brewers. It also makes sense as a means to reduce shipping costs. Cans are very light. Cans also mean no labeler to purchase and maintain. If all that weren't enough - cans are damn cool.

When I walked in I was greeted with equal parts enthusiasm and confusion. It seems that Chance (the very tall guy)  thought I was a "Viking" brewer (as opposed to Biking). This made me a little disappointed too. I really missed a chance to travel the country dressed as a viking. Oh well, maybe next time.

This is Will. He is one of the team of 4 owners (the only one I got a good photo of?). He greeted me and urged me to hang out and grab a beer if I liked. Once again I found myself enjoying an early morning beer to ease the pain of an already easy life. I tried a Pearl Snap, a hoppy pilsner, since it is what was being canned at the moment.  It is refreshing and crisp with a little more hop focus than other craft pilsners. It was a nice surprise, and a great 10am beer. As I enjoyed my can I inspected my surroundings. There was the common clutter resulting from the current (beginning April 11 and ongoing) brewery building process. Still, this is one spotless brewery. It is nice to see the early phases of a small brewery while there are fresh traces of the work that brought it to this point. When I mentioned how many long hot hours it must have taken to get the brewery looking so clean I got a great story about a mid summers swim in the cold water tank.

Adam is another one of the owner/brewers. His normal duties are that of head cellarman. A cellarman is the person who watches over the beer in the cellar, from tank cleaning and sanitizing to filtration of conditioned beer. Brewing is not what Adam normally finds himself doing. In fact, this was the first time he had brewed on this particular system. It gave us a chance to talk about how he and the brew setup got here. Most brewers come from other careers after realizing that all other jobs are less fun than brewing beer. Adam comes to brewing from a background in forensic science. He also has a masters in criminal justice.  After working in his field of study for a few years, eventually realizing making beer is better than putting people in jail, he decided to turn his love of beer and mechanical work into a career in brewing. Adam's mechanical abilities came in handy while building Austin Beer Works. The brewhouse they are using came from Maritime Pacific Brewing in Seattle. While the brew house was in the storage lot, waiting to be sold, someone decided to steal most of the process piping. This gave Adam and the gang the chance to get to know their system and construct process piping from scratch. While working on their mash tun they noticed that it only had one outlet at the bottom. During the build of the brewery they added 3 more outlets to aid in a more even runoff. This adaptation allows them to achieve 85% brewhouse efficiency. After I mentioned how tough it is to find Austin Beerworks cans around town Adam said "We were expecting to make and sell only about 400Bbl this year, due to our quick popularity we might do just over 1000Bbl now." After trying each of their beers it is not hard to see why they are so popular. After talking for awhile longer I left Adam to his brewing and cellar work. I walked to the packaging area, something that comes naturally to me.

What we have here is a two head can filler. When operated by Chance, Colin and Tom it can pump out a whopping 8 cans per minute. The cans are purged, filled, and then lidded. This is a slow process, one which is done 4 to 5 days a week at ABW.  I joined the guys for my remaining 3 or 4 hours of time. We spent a fair amount of time examining why I wasn't a viking, and just how disappointing that was for everyone. We also did the normal dirty brewer talk with many fantastic "show me your - and give it to me in the - can references." I am sure this makes sense to everyone?

My time at ABW could have been far more informative for me (and you) had I asked more questions. Instead, I opted to hang out with the packaging guys in an effort to gain understanding of what it takes to can beer all day. I have never used a can filler; I was intrigued by the operation of this relatively simple machine. The first step is taking two cans from the pallet of cans. Then the first man in line lifts the cans to meet the fill tubes. The fill tubes purge the can with co2 with a timer based system. The cans are then filled from the bottom up with beer. Following filling a lid is dropped on the can. That lid is then crimped on by what can be described as a can opener without the slicer. Once the cans are filled they are placed in a water bath. The water bath rinses the exterior of the can; if the can floats at too high a level in the water it is a short fill and is culled from the group.

The good cans are linked together using the re-useable type 6 pack holders. ABW is trying to implement a system to get the consumer to return these to the brewery. The cans are placed in a tray and stacked on a pallet.

The next step comes when you buy this beer and are struck dumb with wonder and ask "How is this beer so good?"
I think the answer in that lies partially in the diverse backgrounds of the 4 person team that started the brewery.  The rest comes from a brewery wide love of beer and a desire to be the best at what they are doing.




When I was about ready to leave I tried a fresh Fire Eagle IPA. As I sipped my can I noticed this awesome propaganda art near the loading dock. Damn right Screeeeeeeee! With and IPA of this caliber ABW are sure to be very successful.

"What the shit is a Fire Eagle?" you ask. Better not to wonder. Fire Eagles are known to be telepathic and will find and incinerate whoever thinks of them. Luckily for us the brewers at Austin Beerworks take risks. They gathered mental energy and bravely dreamed of a mature Fire Eagle, and act which will summon the bird to the home of the dreamer. The team, dressed in fireproof dreamsuits, then captured and sedated the specimen. After distilling this rare creatures essence to its basest elements they released him and set forth on a taste research mission. After months of hard work they came to the conclusion that Fire Eagles are dangerously delicious! One of the research panel is currently in flavor rehab due to a severe addiction to taste. A few months after releasing the Fire Eagle the bird returned and demanded to be shown some respect as payment for the injustices it was made to suffer. This led the brewers of Austin Beerworks to create a beer that would pay homage to the Fire Eagle for generations to come. This IPA is bold and in your face. The hops come close to setting your tongue aflame just as the malt swoops in to save the day. This IPA is one that I would be willing to ride back to Austin for. Austin Beerworks  make a claim they are brewers hell bent on excellence. I would have to say that they are demonstrating that quite effectively. 

Best of luck  to Austin Beerworks. Thanks for a great day.

May your road be long and free of Cars.

Today the sport of Motorcycling lost a rising star and ambassador to a fatal crash.

At 24 years old Marco Simoncelli was just approaching the end of what should have been the first third of his life yet he already had achieved something most die hard motorcycle enthusiasts spend a lifetime only dreaming of - a 250 GP title. Today, as Marco was working towards the goal of eventually winning a world title in the premier MotoGP class, he met an early end. I will remember Marco as a particularly inspiring fellow rider. His smile and lighthearted, self deprecating statements to the press after repeatedly testing, and finding, the limit of his bikes abilities was a powerful statement to fans that he was having a good time; that he would not have his spirit dampened by something so trivial as a slide across the gravel trap. Marco had the heart of a champion and would have surely made the next step if given more time. At this brave athletes passing the entire motorcycling community has lost a friend and the world has lost positive energy. Goodbye Marco. Thank you for all of the smiles.

The Many Wonders of Austin Pt. 2

What a great city Austin is! I mean, are you kidding me? This place exists on a plane that no place should be allowed to exist on. Every single person is chilled out and there are tacos for breakfast. Throw in the added bonus of a constant supply of terrific local beers and a vibrant music scene and you have a winner. If you need more than that I suggest you kill yourself, because you will never, ever be happy.

On my ride across the desolate, and beautiful, wastes of west Texas I though about what Austin really means to me. I came up with no answer of consequence. At the time it was just a compulsory stop in a string of places that I have always wanted to see. I have always believed that if one travels through the US that they would be stupid to skip Austin. This is a belief that has no concrete logical basis. Austin holds no meaning to me; even after visiting, the history and culture remain a relative mystery to me. If you ask me 25 years from now why Austin holds a special place in my heart I will look to the horizon, drift off into a thousand yard stare, and forget to answer your question. It is just neat for the sake of being neat and that is enough for me.

shaved ice - you're going to need it in this heat.

My host in Austin was a man named Pete. Pete is a kind person from another place who found himself here after college and has been here for over 15 years. If you look around town you will see this "I'm from somewhere else" as a recurring theme. Maybe the reason I like Austin so much springs from my distaste of hearing "I was born and raised here" uttered as a point of pride. People who come from elsewhere are what this country is built on; I challenge you to examine the best cities in the America, chances are they are loaded with people from somewhere else. From the food to the attitude, people from outside are the thing that make us who we are. As an added bonus outsiders have recently caused the development of thumbs in the people of Tennessee (adapted or stolen from Bill Hicks - RIP). So, next time you find yourself slipping into the tired anti-immigration rant, do a 180 and thank them instead. They are the only thing that will save you from a life of eating hamburger helper and eventually relying on family members as breeding partners.

I called Pete from right next to that shaved ice box. I was directed across town to the building that houses The Yellow Bike project. Check it out. Make a donation. When I arrived what I saw was enlightening. A room full of new and veteran cycling enthusiasts working to make sure no frame goes to waste. The yellow bike project is a non profit organization that helps you learn to build or fix your own bike. They provide the tools and support - you provide the desire and willingness to learn. The idea is to remove cars from the city and make bikes the default rather than the exception. As someone who burns gas in order to gain smiles I hope they let me keep my motorcycle.

I'm sure they will. I hung around the bike shop for awhile examining the culture. The crowd of industrious bike enthusiasts made me want to start a motorcycle shop with the same goals. After seeing this place it seems so feasible. Eventually I mentioned to Pete that I was in need of a good meal. I had far too little food today, and far too much coffee. I was shot. East Side Pies had the solution. I ordered a Bacon (the great enhancement), mushroom, gorganzola, and spinach pizza. It is drastically overpriced but terrific. Pizza is supposed to be poor people food; $21 is not poor people pricing. I wish that the rest of the country (i.e. not the east coast) would figure out that making an outstanding pizza does not mean you can over charge. I can't say enough how great this pizza was. I guess that's the point.

 

Next step - Eat Pizza and drink beers. Pete and I hung out for quite a few hours on the porch of his tower. That's right, he has a tower! I failed to take pictures of this overt display of prowess; I guess I was too taken by the audacity of a man with the courage to finally build himself a tower so that he may watch over his people.

 I pee on my bike as often as I am able. This is an animal demonstration of power over an object. It makes a concrete statement. It means "I control you and mark you as my own". i feel like it might keep wildlife from approaching my bike. I park my bike next to my tent to dissuade wildlife from coming too near. It doesn't work I guess. This cat is rubbing against the spot that is most urinated upon. Maybe it smells a fundamental defect in the works? On Tuesday I dedicated myself to contacting breweries and doing maintenance on my bike. After my shock replacement my gas mileage improved but I knew, after 10,000 miles my air filter must be coated in muck. The air filter is located under the fuel tank.

nasty air filter!

This necessitates a complete removal of the front plastics of my bike. It is not a very difficult process if you don't panic. It is quite peaceful actually. I had some breakfast tacos and did some laundry while completing this job. I also sent off some emails and made some phone calls. I basically did everything but pay close attention. This is something that will always result in slipshod motorcycle maintenance work. You must maintain a strict focus on your work if you want to do something right. I have always been told this in one way or another. I continue to disobey the suggestions passed down to me, thinking I might be able to do it my own way. I hold out hope that this approach might eventually work. It didn't this time though. In an effort to keep the insidious Austin dust out of my air intake while my cleaned and re-oiled air filter was out I packed rags in the air intakes. I then took a jaunt over to Barton Springs with Pete. Barton Springs is a natural pool within the city limits. It is a definitive, must see spot on any visit to Austin. The pool is fed by a spring which keeps the water at about 68 degrees year round. This spot, in addition to being a top optional place for female bathers, is also the habitat of an endangered salamander species. I declined to swim due to recently developed aversion to slimy, weed filled swimming areas. Instead I chose to read a book on the shores of the pool while Pete did some swimming. When we returned to Pete's tower I decided to finish my bike work. I forgot about the rags in my air intakes as I put the bike back together. This caused some trouble the next day, but no damage. Good for me.

The night before, over beers, Pete alerted me to the fact that he had a nightly raccoon visitor. I was pretty excited to see if he showed up with a stranger in town. He did. Tuesday night I actually had my camera to capture the adolescent raccoon. He showed up around 10pm as we were having a conversation about whatever it was we discussed. I was at the ready with my camera. I probably took an excessive amount of pictures given the situation. This raccoon is socialized for better or worse. He lives in a city, making him very familiar with people. He continually walked up to our feet for a sniff. It made for some neat pictures.














Some strange faces, a foot sniff/gnawing. Additional shoe inspection elicits terror and a rapid retreat.

I am well aware of the dangers to myself, and the animal of contact like this. We at no time initiated the contact. We also did not make an attempt to threaten this animal. This is a raccoon living in an urban environment. While it is a wild animal, it is also conditioned to understand that humans are here. I am comfortable with the level of interaction we had throughout this experience. Any contact that happened was at the animals leisure. Every attempt was made to dissuade him without harming him (abrupt movements etc...). If this is offensive to anyone I am sorry.

After the raccoon lost interest in us and wandered off to his next stop for the night Pete and I talked and drank for a few hours. After a couple of hours it was time to sleep in preparation for the day to come. A day where I would realize that my motorcycle maintenance skills could use some work.















The next couple days in Austin offered a dizzying array of BBQ, tacos, and beers. As Pete showed me his city I found out that I love Austin. It is a world class city. There will be a Formula 1 race there next year (and hopefully for years to come). There will also be a MotoGP race there in 2013. There will always be music in Austin as long as Humans inhabit it. If you have money to travel I suggest Austin. It will be a rewarding experience for someone with the proper mind set. Don't feed the wildlife.